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Perplexed by powder and bewildered by blush? Where do you begin? Loose? Pressed in a compact? Pressed with a sponge? Translucent? Bronzing Powder? Here are my tips for using powder with power.
Lose the Loose Powder
I will start with what I find doesn’t work. I dislike loose powder of any kind- it is messy and ends up all over your clothes and/or bathroom. You can get the same effect with a lot less mess with a pressed powder. Once you have the right formula, you need the right tools. When you have the right colors and are using the right tools, there is much less room for mistakes.
Guide for Great Results
- The key is to use a giant powder brush to apply powder. The bigger the brush, the sheerer the powder application.
- Using a sponge, like the ones that come with the compact, can be a disaster! It will apply the powder too heavily and you will see it sitting on top of your skin. The only exception to this is someone that needs extra coverage for some reason. If this is the case, apply the compact pressed powder with the sponge ﬁrst, and on top apply liquid foundation. This will give a lot of coverage without a powdery ﬁnish.
- Most women should skip the compact all together. Translucent powder can make you look sick. It is too light and does nothing for your skin tone.
Getting into Trouble
A huge challenge is always “de-orangeing” my clients. Most bronzers on the market are too brown, too orange and rarely look good on their own. Even if a celebrity makeup artist is using one on J. Lo, they are usually blending it with 3 other products. Keep this in mind. It is best to experiment and mix different shades together. Be sure to do this in a room with good natural light as this process needs to be customized to enhance your individual skin tone.
When applying powder, I always dust it on the brush and then either blow off the excess or tap the brush on a towel before applying it. I start with the neck ﬁrst (you want your face and neck to match) and then your face. Now your foundation is “set” and the powder will hold it on all day, keeping it from being absorbed into your skin.
Cream, stick or powder formula? Pink, Peach or Orange? Which to pick? Personally, I dislike cream and stick blush. It is very hard to work with and to blend, and usually the powder ﬁnish is more ﬂattering. I like a pinky, corally bronze type color on everyone. It looks natural, gives a nice glow without being distracting and works with any other make up colors or clothing.
Using the Right Brush is Key
Using the right size and shape brush is essential. I like a chiseled angle blush brush because it ﬁts perfectly under the cheekbone. The right size brush leaves little room for mistake. Too big of a brush and it will be all over, too small and it will go on in stripes (avoid the small ones that are usually sold with the blush in a compact). Again, a stiff brush will put the powder on very heavily, and too soft of a brush will not hold the color.
Knowing Where to Start
The trick is to start straight down from the center of your eye and feather it back, leaving approximately 2 ﬁngers above and 2 ﬁngers below (you may have to tweak this depending on facial proportions).
Knowing How to Finish
After applying the blush with your blush brush, always go back and blend it once more with a big powder brush for a smooth ﬁnish.