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Having worked on thousands of women, I can often identify certain brands of foundation solely based on their distinct yellow hue on my clients’ skin. Many luxury brands offer a sea of different variations of yellow. Though yellow tones work well on Asian women, most of my clientele is Caucasian and with few exceptions have more pink in their skin. Ideally, an equal amount of pink and yellow is needed for a balanced, healthy glow.
I have been custom blending foundation formulas for over 20 years, and currently add fuchsia toner to almost every single one because it cuts the yellow in the skin and subtly adds pink, which looks healthier and less jaundice-like. Almost every woman that sits in my chair has a yellow formula foundation like I am describing. When I remove it and show them the difference that adding pink makes, they are stunned! The problem is there are far too many formulas on the market that shouldn’t be available to anyone. Because of this, purchasing foundation at a department store is very risky. So much so that only one in ten of my clients is wearing a foundation that is appropriate for her skin tone. I also like to go a tiny bit on the darker side to give clients a little more color in addition to adding pink which achieves a rosier bronze glow.
Bonzers and Powders
The same is true of bronzers and translucent powders so I have created one that is more pink-toned as well. When worn over my custom blended foundation it adds another layer of subtle color correction. The pink hue cuts the yellow undertone in the powder. This is especially helpful for blondes who already have a lot of yellow tones in their hair. Pink brightens and lifts the skin without having to depend on an orangey bronzer that might not be the right shade for you.
The one place yellow tones are appropriate is in concealer. Usually the skin color is a little lighter under the eyes, and when you go too light on the concealer it ends up highlighting dark circles and drawing attention to them—AKA the raccoon look. A yellow based concealer blends into the skin more easily and should disappear to look like you are wearing nothing at all. My Beauty Ammo Kit includes three secret weapons for a flawless eye area.
Next time you are on your way to the overwhelming world of department store makeup counters, head to M.B. York instead and have a color custom blended for just $45. Book and appointment at Jo Paris Salon, 14202 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, AZ 85258.